Different makers, different creases and felts.
The best cowboy hat brand depends on what you want, because each maker below gives a different history, base and line. Stetson is the 1865 name behind the Boss of the Plains. Resistol and Master Hatters of Texas are tied to Garland, Texas. American Hat Company calls waterproof straw its hallmark. Bespoke Western sells no cowboy hats.
Who makes cowboy hats, and where?
Five of the eight makers are tied to a Texas town in the sources cited here: Stetson, Resistol and Master Hatters of Texas in Garland, American Hat Company in Bowie and American Hat Makers in Emory. Greeley Hat Works is in Greeley, Colorado, Bailey was founded in Los Angeles, and Charlie 1 Horse states no base on the pages reviewed. The table orders all eight by the earliest year each states, reports what each maker says about itself, and names Wikipedia where a cell comes from it.
| Maker | Began | Made or based | Felt or straw | What the maker says about X |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stetson | 1865, Philadelphia (Wikipedia) | Garland, Texas (Boss of the Plains and El Amo pages) | Fur felt, wool felt, straw | Higher X, more beaver; percentages kept secret |
| Greeley Hat Works | 1909, Greeley, Colorado | Greeley, Colorado, with vintage tools | Felt and straw | Says there is no universal standard for X; names felts by fur content (Beaver 20: 20% beaver fur); lists a 30X shantung straw |
| American Hat Company | 1915, Houston | Bowie, Texas, since 2003 | Straw and felt | 1000X: pure belly beaver blended with mink |
| Bailey | 1922, Los Angeles | USA, from globally sourced materials (Pro 7X Rodeo page) | Fur felt, wool felt, straw | Lists a 7X fur felt (Bailey Western Pro 7X Rodeo) |
| Resistol | 1927 (its FAQ); Dallas (Wikipedia) | Garland, Texas (Wikipedia; its FAQ lists a Garland outlet store) | Fur felt, wool, straw | Same definition as Stetson; refurbishes felts rated 15X and up |
| Master Hatters of Texas | 1968 | Garland, Texas | Straw, wool, fur felt | Lists 20X, 10X and 7X felts and a 3X wool collection on its home page |
| American Hat Makers | Early 1970s | Emory, Texas | Felt, straw, leather | Says X ratings vary by maker |
| Charlie 1 Horse | Not stated; says its hats have appeared on stage, on screen and in Vogue since 1978 | Not stated on the pages reviewed | Straw and felt | Not stated on the pages reviewed |
What do Stetson and Resistol say an X rating means?
Both say the X reflects the quality of the hat body: in felt, the share of fur, and in straw, the tightness of the weave and the narrowness of the reed. Stetson adds that a higher X means a higher beaver percentage and that the exact percentages are a secret formula.
The scale is each maker's own. Bernard Hats, quoted in the types of cowboy hats guide, says a 10X hat from one maker differs from a 10X hat from another, so compare X ratings inside one maker's line.
Which cowboy hat maker should you pick?
Pick Stetson or Resistol for a felt hat tied to Garland, Texas, American Hat Company for waterproof straw, and Greeley Hat Works for a hat built to order; the list below gives each maker's stated reason.
- Stetson if you want the maker of the Boss of the Plains, created in the 1860s, with 6X and 500X fur felts on its product pages and the Open Road, introduced in 1937.
- Resistol if you want a felt hat from a maker that Wikipedia places in Garland, Texas and that refurbishes felts rated 15X and up through a dealer.
- American Hat Company if you want waterproof straw. It says it is the only cowboy hat company making waterproof straw hats, and it ships most hats open-crown and flat-brim for custom shaping.
- Greeley Hat Works if you want a hat built to order. It states under 3 months for made-to-order and under 4 months for custom, as of 4 October 2026.
- Master Hatters of Texas if you want straw, wool or fur felt hats from a Garland, Texas maker that says it began developing hats for Wrangler Jean Company in 1988 under a licensee agreement that was successful for 20 years.
- Bailey if you want a Western line from a company founded in Los Angeles in 1922 that describes its design as Hollywood elegance and Western toughness.
- American Hat Makers if you want felt, straw or leather from a maker that traces its roots to Head n Home Hats, which started out making all leather hats, and whose FAQ says all its products are backed by a 50 Year Craftsmanship Guarantee.
- Charlie 1 Horse if you want straw or felt in the traditional, summer and fashion-forward designs it describes, including its Charlie 1 Horse by Lainey Wilson collection.
Does Bespoke Western sell cowboy hats?
No. Bespoke Western sells no cowboy hats, and this guide names hat makers with facts alone: no links, no prices. To build a look around a hat, start with the boot collection. The Lamar is based on boots that Alvie Faulkenbery IV, who founded Alvies, saw his grandfather wear: premium cowhide with a classic toe and a cowboy heel.
Quick answers
Is Stetson or Resistol better?
The facts above separate them by age and line, not by rank. Stetson began in 1865 and Resistol in 1927, both define X the same way on their FAQ pages, and both are tied to Garland, Texas in the sources cited here. Choose by crown, brim and fit.
Which makers sell straw cowboy hats?
All eight makers in the table list straw hats. American Hat Company says it alone makes waterproof straw cowboy hats.
What is the most famous cowboy hat?
Stetson calls the Boss of the Plains, created in the 1860s, "the hat that started it all." The ten-gallon hat guide traces where the name "ten-gallon hat" came from.
How do I find my hat size?
Wrap a tape measure around your head about 1/8 inch above your ears, snug but not tight, then match the circumference to a maker's chart. The cowboy hat size chart shows Stetson's chart.
Can I change a hat's crease after buying it?
Yes: open-crown hats ship uncreased for shaping, and a pre-creased hat can usually be re-shaped with steam, per the cowboy hat shapes guide. American Hat Company ships most of its hats open-crown with a flat brim.
Bottom line
Stetson says its Boss of the Plains and El Amo are handmade in Garland, American Hat Company calls waterproof straw its hallmark, and Greeley Hat Works states made-to-order and custom timelines. Match the maker to the fact you need, measure your head, and compare X ratings only within one maker's line.
Where to go next
- Shop all boots
- Types of cowboy hats: felt, straw, and X ratings
- Ten-gallon hat: what it means and where the name came from
- Cowboy hat shapes: crown creases and brim styles
- Cowboy hat etiquette
- Best cowboy boot brands: who makes what, and where
- What to wear with cowboy boots
Sources: Stetson (About, FAQ and product pages); Resistol (FAQ); Wikipedia ("Resistol," "Stetson"); American Hat Company; Master Hatters of Texas; Bailey; Greeley Hat Works; American Hat Makers; Charlie 1 Horse; Bernard Hats, as quoted in Bespoke Western's types of cowboy hats guide.
