Brush first, eraser second, then treat the stain by type. Water and heat come last or not at all.
Clean suede boots and shoes in this order: dry mud first, brush the nap, lift marks with a suede eraser, then treat what is left by stain type. Dry the pair slowly and away from heat. Suede is fuzzy leather, and a brush is the main tool for keeping it clean.
What is suede, and how is it different from nubuck?
Zatchels describes suede as split leather with a delicate, fuzzy texture, and the Britannica Dictionary defines it plainly as "soft leather that has been rubbed on one side to make a surface that looks and feels like velvet." Nubuck is taken from the outside of the hide, then sanded and buffed. Zatchels calls nubuck "a lot tougher than suede."
How do you dry-clean suede boots and shoes before using anything wet?
Brush first, every time. Zappos says to brush in the direction of the grain. Kirby Allison lists three suede brushes: a natural bristle brush, a combination brush of brass and natural or synthetic bristles, and a crepe brush with a soft, gummy rubber "bristle."
For a mark, rub gently with a suede eraser. Zappos suggests a slow circular motion, and the Saphir Médaille d'Or Shop's guide says gently rubbing with the Gommadin block detaches stains. Brush again afterward. Jason Markk's video method dry-brushes first, then applies foam with a cleaning brush. Test any cleaner first on a hidden spot such as the inside of the boot shaft, per Ariat.
How do you clean mud off suede boots?
Let the mud dry, then brush it off. Justin Boots says "Let the debris dry on the boots," then use a semi-stiff brush to knock off the debris. Derimarket says wiping wet mud pushes it deeper.
Overlook Boots starts by knocking the soles together to shed caked mud. Lucchese suggests a nail file or wire bristle brush on dry mud, with gentle strokes. Brush along the welt seam too, since Sartale calls seams and welt edges weak spots for moisture. Our Goodyear welt guide explains the welt.
How do you treat a stain by type?
Treat it by cause. For salt, Zappos blots with cold water and dish soap. For stubborn dirt, Zappos dabs white vinegar on the spot. For grease or oil, Decentfoot covers it in cornstarch or baking soda. For a water mark, Ariat dampens the whole area around it rather than the mark alone.
| Stain | What the sources say |
|---|---|
| Salt | Zappos: blot with a mixture of cold water and dish soap. Sartale: dab a weak solution of cool water and white vinegar (see the salt section below) |
| Stubborn dirt | Zappos: dab white vinegar on the problem area; it temporarily discolors the shoe until the spot dries, then brush over it again |
| Grease or oil | Decentfoot: sprinkle a generous amount of cornstarch or baking soda on the stain and let it sit several hours, preferably overnight |
| Water mark | Ariat: lightly dampen a towel and moisten the entire area around the stain |
How do you get winter salt lines off suede boots?
Dry the boots first, then brush away the loose salt. Sartale says road salt draws water into suede and dries as pale, crusty rings. Its fix is a cloth dipped in a weak solution of cool water and white vinegar, dabbed on slowly with the edges of the stain blended. Ariat gives the mix as two parts water to one part white vinegar.
Can you use Dawn dish soap on suede, or a magic eraser?
The sources disagree on dish soap, and none covers Dawn by name or a magic eraser. Zappos treats a salt stain by blotting with a mixture of cold water and dish soap. Justin Boots calls for "warm, clean water with no soaps or agents," and Kirby Allison washes with a diluted suede shampoo. The erasers these sources describe are suede erasers.
What should you not use on suede?
Heat is the clearest one. Cheaney says artificial heat "will aggressively dry out the leather's natural oils, causing it to shrink, stiffen, and crack," and Zappos says to avoid direct sunlight, the dryer and the blowdryer. Justin's polish routine excludes suede and nubuck.
On water, the sources split three ways. Justin Boots wants clean water with no soaps. Kirby Allison says it is "absolutely safe and okay to get your suede shoes wet," and describes washing with diluted suede shampoo, rinsing, stuffing with paper, drying overnight and re-brushing. Zappos blots salt with cold water and dish soap.
How do you make suede look new again?
Re-fluff the nap with a suede brush. Kirby Allison says any water on suede collapses the pile, so re-brush after drying to raise it again. Overlook Boots says an eraser can leave suede dull, flat and grey, and the spot looks fresh again once brushed. No source here covers restoring faded color.
How do you dry suede boots after they get wet?
Stuff them and let them dry slowly at room temperature. Ariat says to stuff wet suede boots with newspaper or a towel so they hold their shape, and to dry them naturally, away from direct sunlight or heaters. Slow air-drying beats heat, per Ariat.
Sources split on paper versus boot trees while the boots are damp. Kirby Allison says newspaper works better than a shoe tree because it absorbs some of the water the shoes have taken on. Lucchese says boot trees speed drying, and cedar trees help boots keep their shape and stop curling.
Should you use a protector spray, and how?
Yes. The Saphir Médaille d'Or Shop's suede guide recommends a spray based on natural ingredients, naming Saphir Médaille d'Or Natural Protector: apply it evenly from about 15 centimeters away, let it settle for about 5-10 minutes, and use it once a month. The same guide advises against nano- or silicone-based sprays, saying they dry out and damage leather in the long run. Read that as the shop's preference rather than the manufacturer's position: Saphir itself sells a Nano Invulner protector described for suede and nubuck. Sartale adds the seams and welt edges. Ariat notes some sprays darken suede at first and need reapplying.
What about the house's own suede — The Broker and The Statesman?
The Broker is Hevias's penny loafer, in dune, ginger, navy, olive and fawn suede. The Statesman is Hevias's chukka boot, in Italian slate suede and Italian chocolate suede. Both are handcrafted in León, Mexico, per Hevias's own product pages. The order above applies to both.
Quick answers
Can I use regular shoe polish or leather conditioner on suede?
Justin's polish routine excludes suede and nubuck. It says its procedure applies to most leathers except for those two.
Does suede change color when it gets wet?
Justin Boots says it is very easy to change the color of suede when cleaning and applying water.
How do I store suede boots?
Ariat says to stuff boots with paper or use boot trees when you are not wearing them so they keep their shape over time.
Bottom line
Dry mud, brush with the grain, erase, then treat by stain type, and dry slowly away from heat. Start with the dry steps; move to Kirby Allison's shampoo wash for a full clean. Where no source speaks, as with Dawn by name or a magic eraser, stay with the dry routine.
Where to go next
- Shop loafers and shoes
- The Broker, dune suede
- The Statesman, chocolate suede
- Shop Hevias
- How to waterproof boots
- How to clean leather cowboy boots
- How to condition cowboy boots
Sources: Britannica Dictionary; Zatchels; Zappos; KirbyAllison.com; Jason Markk; Decentfoot; Saphir Médaille d'Or Shop; the Cheaney Journal; Justin Boots; Lucchese; Ariat; Overlook Boots; Sartale; Derimarket.
