Nubuck on the left, suede on the right. A similar nap from opposite sides of the hide.
Nubuck is real leather: top-grain leather sanded on the outer, grain side to raise a short, velvet-like nap. Suede comes from the other side of the hide, the softer inner layer. Wikipedia's nubuck entry says that outer-side start gives nubuck more strength and thickness, so it usually outlasts suede.
What is nubuck?
Wikipedia's nubuck entry defines it as "top-grain leather that is sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface." The same entry says nubuck is created from the outer side of a hide, "giving it more strength and thickness and a fine grain." It also says nubuck is colored or dyed heavily to cover up the sanding and stamping that raise the nap.
What is the difference between nubuck and suede?
Nubuck comes from the outside of the hide. Suede comes from the inside. Wikipedia's suede entry says suede is made from the underside of the hide, which gives it a soft, napped finish. Wikipedia's nubuck entry says nubuck is sanded on the grain side, the outside. The two can look alike. They do not wear alike. Wikipedia's suede entry says suede is less durable and softer than full-grain leather because it lacks the tough outer grain layer, and its open pores get dirty and absorb liquids quickly.
| Nubuck | Suede | |
|---|---|---|
| Which side of the hide | Grain (outer) side, sanded (Wikipedia) | Flesh (inner) side, the underside of the hide (Wikipedia) |
| Feel | Velvet-like surface, short nap, fine grain (Wikipedia) | Soft, napped finish (Wikipedia) |
| Durability | Resists wear and outlasts suede, but scratches easily (Wikipedia) | Less durable and softer than full-grain leather (Wikipedia) |
| Water and stains | Water drops darken it for a while; it returns to its color once dry (Wikipedia) | Open pores get dirty and absorb liquids quickly (Wikipedia) |
| Care | Eraser bar, brush, leather cream, protector spray (Red Wing) | Brush and eraser; never soap and water or a washing machine (Wikipedia) |
Is nubuck real leather?
Yes. Wikipedia's nubuck entry describes it as top-grain leather, which is animal hide. It is not a plastic coating on fabric like PU leather. Where top grain sits among the other grades is covered in full grain vs top grain vs genuine leather.
Is nubuck waterproof?
None of the sources here call nubuck waterproof. The FTC's leather guides say a product should not be called "waterproof" unless it keeps water from its contents under normal use for its expected life. Wikipedia's nubuck entry says water drops darken it for a while, and the leather returns to its original color once dry. Red Wing's nubuck and roughout routine ends with a leather protector spray. If a wet pair starts to squeak as it dries, see how to stop shoes squeaking.
How do you clean nubuck?
Red Wing's nubuck and roughout care guide gives four steps: rub marks off with an eraser bar, brush the nap once the leather is dry, apply a light coat of leather cream, then finish with a light mist of leather protector. In order:
- Rub the soiled area with an eraser bar. If the stain stays, Red Wing says to wet the eraser bar and repeat.
- Let the leather dry. Then brush it with a bristle brush to restore the nap.
- Apply a light, even coat of leather cream with your fingers, a cloth, or a sponge. Red Wing says this keeps the leather healthy.
- Finish with a light, sweeping mist of leather protector, held six to eight inches from the leather, per Red Wing.
Suede uses different tools. Wikipedia's suede entry says suede is cleaned with suede brushes, suede rubbers and nail files, often with white vinegar or cornstarch for stains, and finished with a suede protector spray. It also says suede should never be cleaned with soap and water or put through a washing machine.
That routine is for nubuck and roughout. For stain-by-stain suede care (water, salt, oil) see how to clean suede shoes.
Can you polish nubuck?
Not with ordinary shoe polish. Charles Tyrwhitt's polishing guide says traditional shoe polish isn't suitable for nubuck or suede, and that suede brushes or erasers are the tools to use instead. Red Wing's nubuck routine uses a leather cream, not a wax polish.
The sources do differ on one point. Red Wing puts leather cream on nubuck and roughout as a normal step. Charles Tyrwhitt says traditional polish is not for nubuck or suede. Check which leather your pair is before you apply anything. Smooth leather has its own routine: see how to polish shoes.
What suede does Bespoke Western carry?
The house carries suede, not nubuck, in two Hevias styles: The Broker, a suede penny loafer, and The Statesman, a suede chukka. Both are handcrafted in León, Mexico, per their product descriptions.
- The Broker in fawn suede: cut in "premium fawn suede," the description says, with "a lighter, more refined tone to a classic slip-on silhouette."
- The Broker in dune suede: "a suede loafer with quiet confidence," with "a relaxed, sun-worn tone."
- The Statesman in chocolate suede: "a chocolate suede chukka with quiet authority, soft texture, and enough backbone to wear anywhere."
These are suede, so the suede cleaning guide is the one to use for them, not the nubuck routine above.
Where to go next
- Shop loafers and shoes
- The Statesman in chocolate suede
- How to clean suede shoes
- Full grain vs top grain vs genuine leather
- What is PU leather?
Sources: Wikipedia ("Nubuck" and "Suede" entries); Red Wing Shoes, nubuck and roughout care guide; Charles Tyrwhitt, "How to Polish Shoes: A 5-Step Guide"; the FTC's leather guides (16 CFR Part 24).
