Same animal hide, two finishes: napped suede on the left, smooth grain on the right.
Suede is real leather with a soft, napped surface. It is made from the underside of a hide, most often the underside of a split, then sanded to raise a fine nap. It feels softer and more flexible than smooth leather, and its open fibres take in water more readily (Wikipedia, Morjas).
Most guides stop at that definition. This page adds three things they leave out: how a tannery and a shoe brand describe water-repellent suede, what the FTC's leather guides say about the words "leather" and "waterproof," and how both ideas read on suede pairs you can buy, such as The Broker in fawn suede.
What is suede?
Suede is leather with the flesh side out and a sanded nap. Wikipedia describes it as made from the underside of the animal skin, softer and more pliable than the outer layer, though not as durable. Wikipedia's leather article adds that suede comes from the underside of a split, giving a soft napped finish.
Sources draw the line in slightly different places. Carl Friedrik places suede in the inner layer, the corium or split layer. Morjas describes it as the inner side of a hide sanded to raise a fine nap, and it also covers reverse suede, a full-grain leather worn with the flesh side facing out.
Is suede real leather?
Yes, suede is real leather. Morjas states that suede is full-grain or split leather sanded on its inner surface, and calls it neither synthetic nor imitation. Morjas adds that velvet is a woven fabric, typically silk, cotton or synthetic, while suede is leather.
Smooth leather and suede come from the same kind of hide. The difference is which side faces out and how it is finished.
How is suede made?
A tannery splits the hide, sands and buffs the split layer, and dyes it. Carl Friedrik describes a splitting machine that cuts the softened hide into layers. Tanners keep the upper layer for full-grain leather, and the lower side usually goes to suede.
The tanner then sands and buffs the split layer to raise the nap, the tiny fibres that give suede its texture. Carl Friedrik adds that suede's porous nature makes aniline dyeing an easy job. C.F. Stead, a tannery, lists Janus Calf as a calf suede with a natural full-grain, aniline reverse.
What animal does suede come from?
Lamb is the most common source. Sewport, Contrado, Carl Friedrik and Moonster all put lamb first, with goat, deer and calf alongside it. Contrado and Moonster also list pig.
Morjas looks at footwear specifically and says suede there is most often calfskin, lambskin or goatskin. Wikipedia notes that splits from thick cow and deer hides are also sueded, and that younger or smaller animals are often used because adult skins tend to give a coarse, shaggy nap.
Suede vs leather: what's the difference?
Suede trades durability and water resistance for softness. Smooth full-grain leather keeps the tough outer layer, and suede shows the inner fibres. The table sets the three side by side, with a source in each cell.
| Point | Suede | Full-grain smooth leather | Faux suede (microsuede) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Part of hide | Underside, often a split (Wikipedia) | Upper layer of the hide (Carl Friedrik) | None; a synthetic fabric, often polyester (Carl Friedrik) |
| Feel | Soft, velvety, napped (Morjas) | Tough, smooth surface (Carl Friedrik, on top grain) | Soft (Carl Friedrik) |
| Durability | Less durable and softer than standard leather (Wikipedia) | More durable (Morjas) | Sources in this guide give no durability comparison |
| Water | Open fibres absorb water more readily (Morjas) | More water-resistant (Morjas) | Stain-resistant (Carl Friedrik) |
| Care | Brush after every wear; use a water-repellent spray before first wear (Morjas) | Practical in wet winter when properly cared for (Morjas) | Easier to clean than natural suede, for Ultrasuede (Wikipedia, Microfiber) |
| Label rules | Called "leather" only if made in all substantial parts of leather (FTC leather guides, section 24.2) | Same rule (FTC leather guides, section 24.2) | Disclose as not leather, imitation or simulated (FTC leather guides, section 24.2(a)) |
Morjas adds that suede breaks in faster, a suede loafer usually feels comfortable from the start, and well-made suede shoes, properly cared for, can last a decade or more.
Is suede waterproof?
Untreated suede takes in water, and treated suede resists it. Morjas says suede absorbs water, which can cause water marks and flatten the nap. Light rain is fine on suede treated with a water-repellent spray, and Morjas advises avoiding heavy rain.
Sioux, a shoe brand, explains a tannery option. It says that in hydrophobization the leather gains water-repellent properties during production, so less moisture is absorbed and the leather dries more easily after wearing. In Sioux's words, hydrophobized means water-repellent, not waterproof.
The FTC's leather guides, section 24.3, say a product should be called waterproof only if it prevents water from contacting its contents under normal conditions of intended use during the anticipated life of the product. The guides are administrative interpretations offered as guidance to the public (section 24.0), and they cover footwear.
On bespokewestern.com, The Broker in dune and ginger list their material as "Water Proof Suede" (product pages, checked 30 September 2026). That is the listed material name on those two pages. For care and stain steps on any suede, use the suede cleaning guide.
What is faux suede (microsuede)?
Faux suede is a synthetic fabric that imitates suede leather. Carl Friedrik describes microsuede as woven microfibres, often polyester, that is soft, affordable and stain-resistant. Wikipedia calls Ultrasuede a synthetic imitation of suede leather that is cheaper and easier to clean and sew than natural suede.
The FTC's leather guides, section 24.2(a), say a material that appears to be leather but is something else should be disclosed as such, with terms like "Not leather," "Imitation leather" or "Simulated leather."
Should you pick suede or smooth leather?
Pick suede for softness, a relaxed look and a shoe that feels comfortable from the first wear. Pick full-grain smooth leather for rain, wet winters and hard daily wear. Morjas says suede works from spring through autumn, and full-grain is the more practical choice in wet winter.
The Broker is a penny loafer with a suede upper, described as handcrafted in León, Mexico by generational artisans. The Statesman in Italian chocolate suede is a chukka; the chukka boot guide covers the shape. For smooth leather side by side, read full-grain vs top-grain leather.
Quick answers
Is suede cheap leather?
Sources disagree. Morjas says suede and smooth leather from the same hide are roughly comparable in price, while Carl Friedrik calls suede expensive and delicate. No source in this guide gives a figure.
Is suede from a cow?
Sometimes. Wikipedia says splits from thick cow and deer hides are also sueded, with a shaggy nap.
Is suede the same as nubuck?
They differ by side of the hide. Suede uses the underside, and nubuck is top grain sanded on the outside. The nubuck guide covers the comparison.
Does suede count as leather on a label?
Yes, when the product is composed in all substantial parts of leather. The FTC's leather guides, section 24.2, set that test, and section 24.2(a) asks that non-leather material be disclosed as such.
Bottom line
Suede is real leather with the flesh side out, sanded to a soft nap, and it wears best from spring through autumn. Treated suede resists water, and the FTC's leather guides set a higher bar for the word "waterproof." Pick suede for softness, and pick smooth leather for rain and hard wear.
Where to go next
- Loafers and shoes, where The Broker in suede lives
- Hevias boots and loafers
- How to clean suede shoes
- What is nubuck? Nubuck vs suede
- The Broker in fawn suede
Sources: Wikipedia (Suede, Leather, Microfiber); Morjas (15 October 2025); Carl Friedrik (29 July 2025); Sewport; Contrado; Moonster Leather; Charles F. Stead and Co (Janus Calf); Sioux, "Leather Made in Germany"; eCFR, 16 CFR Part 24 (the FTC's leather guides); bespokewestern.com product pages, checked 30 September 2026.
