Nubuck vs Suede: Which Lasts Longer and Which to Buy

Nubuck is sanded on the outside of the hide, suede on the inside.

Nubuck is sanded on the outside of the hide and suede on the inside, and most guides say that makes nubuck tougher. One tanner disagrees: Andrew Bailey of Charles F. Stead, quoted under Stridewise's heading "Is Suede Durable?", says "It's a massive misconception" and that the same thickness "can be provided on a suede or a grain." For boots and shoes, check the thickness and finish of the pair, then pick by look and use.

Which lasts longer, nubuck or suede?

Most guides say nubuck, and one tanner says it depends. Wikipedia says nubuck's outer-side start gives it "more strength and thickness," Samuel Hubbard says nubuck "is more durable than suede," and Snakehive says it is "thicker than suede, so far more durable." Andrew Bailey, sales director of the suede tannery Charles F. Stead, is quoted in Stridewise's guide under the heading "Is Suede Durable?" He says "It's a massive misconception," and that a shoemaker's one to two millimeters, up to three for a heavy boot, "can be provided on a suede or a grain."

Bailey adds: "The durability depends on how it’s been treated, the substance, the temper, and a host of other elements that are much more important than whether it’s suede or full grain." The tannery's own page says its suedes shrink 15% to 30% in production, a tighter fibre structure it credits for "enhanced wear properties."

Is nubuck or suede more expensive?

Most sources say nubuck, but they disagree. Wikipedia calls nubuck "generally more expensive than suede," and Carl Friedrik says nubuck products are "generally more expensive than suede alternatives because they come from the strongest part of the hide," and that suede tends to cost less, though "this is not always the case." Stridewise says suede "usually fetches a higher price," then writes later on the same page that suede is generally cheaper than nubuck.

No source here gives a price comparison in numbers. Compare the two pairs in front of you, tag to tag.

What are roughout and reverse suede?

Reverse suede, also called roughout, is made by taking a hide and flipping it over, per Bailey. Classic suede instead removes a thin grain layer and uses the rest of the hide. Stridewise adds that roughout is usually treated as its own product, since it uses the other side of full-grain leather.

Labels blur the lines. Stridewise notes that Red Wing Heritage's Charcoal Rough and Tough is a nubuck, "though everyone calls it 'full grain.'" Waxed suedes such as Stead's Waxy Commander and Rambler add wax to resist stains and water, and Stead lists the Rambler as flesh-side leather under natural waxes, 1.2 to 2.2 mm thick.

Which should you buy for boots and shoes, nubuck or suede?

Buy nubuck for a rugged, plain boot and suede for a softer, dressier shoe. For rain or hard use, look at waxed suede or a treated nubuck.

• Pick nubuck for a boot built for function. Stridewise says that as a rule, with exceptions, nubuck is "more about function than form," and that you are "really unlikely to find nubuck on dressier footwear."
• Pick suede for loafers and chukkas. Stridewise lists suede as usually thinner, more supple and easier to break in than smooth leather, and calls both leathers great for business casual Chelseas and chukkas.
• Pick waxed suede when weather matters. Stridewise calls wax one way to make suede more resistant to stains and water.

Opinions differ on status. Vince Romano, founder of Truman Boot Company, says nubuck "is a higher grade than suede" but "looks cheaper." Bailey's view is that the treatment decides.

Bespoke Western carries suede, not nubuck: The Broker penny loafer in fawn, plus dune, ginger, navy and other colors, and The Statesman chukka in chocolate. The fawn Broker's description says its suede "will develop character over time." The suede guide covers what each listing says about water.

Quick answers

How do you tell nubuck from suede by eye?

Look at the nap. Stridewise calls suede nappier and nubuck velvetier, and notes that some nubucks come so close to full grain that the two can be confused. The product page or tag names the leather.

What are the disadvantages of nubuck?

Carl Friedrik lists price, a thick hide that is harder to work, and scratch-prone texture. Stridewise adds less "character" than suede or full grain, and that nubuck usually doesn't develop a great patina with wear. The nubuck guide covers care.

Can nubuck get wet?

Drops, yes. Stridewise says nubuck shows water spots if some drips on it but should dry quickly without staining, and the nubuck guide covers how it handles water.

Do nubuck and suede need different brushes?

Sources differ. Samuel Hubbard says nubuck brushes are typically stiffer and may damage suede. Stridewise likes a stiff brass-bristle brush for both and names a 4-way brush it uses on both. The suede cleaning guide covers the dry steps.

Is faux suede the same as nubuck?

Faux suede is a polyester microfibre, per Carl Friedrik, and nubuck is leather. The vegan vs real leather guide sorts the synthetic materials.

Bottom line

Nubuck and suede are both real leather with a nap, and the guides split on which is tougher, which costs more and which builds patina. A tanner says treatment matters more than the side of the hide. Pick nubuck for function, suede for softness, and waxed suede for weather.

Where to go next

• Shop loafers and shoes
• The Statesman in slate suede
• What is nubuck?
• What is suede?
• Vegan leather vs real leather

Sources: Stridewise, "Nubuck vs Suede: A Tanner, Leatherworker, and Bootmaker Weigh In" (April 2026); Charles F. Stead and Co (tannery); Wikipedia ("Nubuck," "Suede"); Carl Friedrik; Samuel Hubbard; Snakehive; bespokewestern.com product pages, checked 2 October 2026.